Designer Confidential: The Free Spirit

Designer Confidential highlights the work of SU's greatest fashion asset: its student designers.

Isadora Duncan remains to be one of the world’s most influential dancers-often referred to as the creator of modern dance. Her spirit has inspired countless creatives, even following her untimely death in 1927.

Senior designer Marteal Boniello chose Isadora Duncan as the muse for her final student collection. She focuses on the aspects of Isadora’s life as well as the events surrounding her death. Marteal states, “...[Duncan's] life [was] ended tragically by a scarf getting caught around her neck. [So] I began looking at neck braces and neck rings, and found the Kayan Lahwi tribe of women in Thailand to be my main inspiration.” She also looked to the work of Czech painter Alphonse Mucha to inspire the color palette of her collection.

Boniello incorporates a variety of silks into her collection as well as, woven stretch cotton, leather, and gold weave novelty fabrics as accents. Her color palette includes light, muted colors like mauve, taupe, cream, grayish purple and grayish blue, mixed with orange and gold. “It sounds strange in writing but the colors look very beautiful together,” Boniello explains.

Boniello has interned at Badgley Mischka for the past two years. For students in search of a fashion internship, Boniello suggests simply emailing your resume and contact information to prospective employers- that's what worked for her with Badgley Mischka. Boniello is a fan of many designers but her favorite fashion designer is the late Alexander McQueen. “He [was] a genius,” Boniello says.

Dream Job:

Boniello’s dream job is to be a fashion illustrator for a famous designer. Her position would involve sketching looks for collections and putting together inspiration boards among other things. “It’s a very challenging job, but I’d love to do it, “ Boniello says.

Designer Confidential:

“I would have to say I think my work looks better on paper then in the actual garment form,” Boniello laughs. Yet, if Boniello pursues her dream job as an illustrator this may work to her advantage.

- Christina Riggio

Designer Confidential: Time and Time Again

Designer Confidential highlights the work of SU's greatest fashion asset: its student designers.

When looking for inspiration, up and coming designers are constantly pulling ideas from different time periods. Whether looking to the 1920’s flapper era or the 1970’s hippie generation, young designers learn a lot from considering the growth and development of American culture over the years. For her upcoming senior collection, Abby Kinzel, channels the World War II period pinup look.

Kinzel is in the process of creating six looks for the show. Along with her fresh source of inspiration, Kinzel is approaching her collection with the industry insight she's gained while working in the studios of Badgley Mischka and Tracy Reese. “Both of these internships were great. I worked as a technical designer helping out with fittings and making changes to the fit of garments,” she explained.

The fabric Kinzel is incorporating into her collection is a combination of brocades, tweeds, and burnout fabrics. “I wanted the collection to appear extremely cohesive so I featured a mostly black and metallic palette” Kinzel explained. She focuses on cinched waists with corsetry factoring into many of her designs. Additionally, epaulette detailing is used on the shoulders of several pieces.

When asked about the development of her collection Abby mentioned, “although it is a highly rewarding process it is hard to translate drawings to actual garments.” This can be a difficult process for many designers because translating two-dimensional drawings into actual three-dimensional garments can involve many tedious and demanding steps. Nevertheless, Kinzel's finished garments are designed carefully and constructed to a runway level standard.

Dream Job: Ideally, Kinzel would like to work in the technical design departments of an established fashion label.

“I would be more then happy to work for either company I interned for. I learned a lot while working for both Badgley Mischka and Tracy Reese and would love to go back anytime.”

Why you should look out for her: Kinzel translates her positive energy and dedication to fashion into all her designs.

“I want my work to be the best it can be. I keep working and altering a design until it looks the best it possibly can.” With her determination, creativity, and vivacity, Kinzel will be one to watch in the upcoming fashion show.

-Christina Riggio