Designer Confidential: The Free Spirit

Designer Confidential highlights the work of SU's greatest fashion asset: its student designers.

Isadora Duncan remains to be one of the world’s most influential dancers-often referred to as the creator of modern dance. Her spirit has inspired countless creatives, even following her untimely death in 1927.

Senior designer Marteal Boniello chose Isadora Duncan as the muse for her final student collection. She focuses on the aspects of Isadora’s life as well as the events surrounding her death. Marteal states, “...[Duncan's] life [was] ended tragically by a scarf getting caught around her neck. [So] I began looking at neck braces and neck rings, and found the Kayan Lahwi tribe of women in Thailand to be my main inspiration.” She also looked to the work of Czech painter Alphonse Mucha to inspire the color palette of her collection.

Boniello incorporates a variety of silks into her collection as well as, woven stretch cotton, leather, and gold weave novelty fabrics as accents. Her color palette includes light, muted colors like mauve, taupe, cream, grayish purple and grayish blue, mixed with orange and gold. “It sounds strange in writing but the colors look very beautiful together,” Boniello explains.

Boniello has interned at Badgley Mischka for the past two years. For students in search of a fashion internship, Boniello suggests simply emailing your resume and contact information to prospective employers- that's what worked for her with Badgley Mischka. Boniello is a fan of many designers but her favorite fashion designer is the late Alexander McQueen. “He [was] a genius,” Boniello says.

Dream Job:

Boniello’s dream job is to be a fashion illustrator for a famous designer. Her position would involve sketching looks for collections and putting together inspiration boards among other things. “It’s a very challenging job, but I’d love to do it, “ Boniello says.

Designer Confidential:

“I would have to say I think my work looks better on paper then in the actual garment form,” Boniello laughs. Yet, if Boniello pursues her dream job as an illustrator this may work to her advantage.

- Christina Riggio

Designer Confidential: Wearable Art

Designer Confidential highlights the work of SU's greatest fashion asset: its student designers.

One of the greatest sources of inspiration for fashion designers is the past. Both Louis Vuitton and Prada’s fall 2010 collections heavily referenced the 1950s, while Marc Jacob’s Spring 2011 line paid homage to the ‘70s. However you won’t see anything this recent in Melissa Sack’s collections. “People are always doing the ‘60s or the ‘80s, and I say, ‘Yeah, but that’s come, gone, and come back again’” says the sophomore fashion design major. Instead, Sack draws her inspiration from ancient times: “I love to travel, and last December I went to Italy. I was really inspired by the Renaissance art period, and that’s reflecting in my work this year.”

Sack knows exactly where she wants her career to go: “A lot of people want to work for someone else and do wearable clothes, which is great, but if I could, I don’t want to be stuck working for someone for the rest of my life. I want to do my own thing and create my own designs. I have a lot of passion and I know exactly what I want. Everyone’s always like ‘How do you know what you want?’ and I say ‘I’ve known since high school. That’s not gonna change.”

But Sack has bigger dreams than just owning her own line: “I want to [make] wearable art, not pieces that you see and can be worn [in] everyday [life]. They would be very crazy couture, very Lady Gaga-esque. I would almost rather do gallery exhibits than runway shows.” Plus, she’s very hands-on with her designs: “I still want to be the one sewing. A lot of designers don’t even draw anymore.”

Dream Job: To own a fashion corporation, like Alexander McQueen or Marc Jacobs, working under the title of experimental artist rather than fashion designer.

Why you should look out for her: Her designs aren’t something you’ll see just anywhere. She describes them as “wearable art” and pictures herself designing duds for Lady Gaga or Rihanna.

Designer Confidential: When she's not at school, she spends her time working at her parent’s jewelry shop. Being around so much bijoux has both inspired her garment designs and given her an idea of how she'd like to style her model's jewelry for upcoming shows. Plus “it’s fun to play with the diamonds.”

- Julie Kosin

Rag Report: Vogue walks on the wild side

Rag Report dives under the covers of fashion publications to rant or rave about all the glossy goodness.

Vogue brings the world of Avatar to US newsstands this month in its March 2010 editorial  “The Warrior Way,” featuring model Daria Werbowy.

 Warrier model Daria Werbowy

The 9-page spread, photographed by David Sims, successfully combines the ethereal essence of nature and ethnic beauty with the bold, strong spirit of a warrior. Werbowy shows effortlessly chic style with tribal print dresses and skirts in fluid, detailed fabrics. In this spread though, the accessories definitely steal the show. The strongest shot features a fashionable, but not practical, Gucci dress with a metal harness that instantly evokes a tough-girl attitude.

 

Shouldering up in Vogue March 2010

And what would a warrior be without armor? The Comme des Garcons shoulder pads and belt give this otherwise-mundane Blumarine tie-dye dress some much-needed personality and punch.

 

Loving the McQueen shoes

Our resident Amazon woman is made even tougher with the iconic Armadillo platforms by the late, great Alexander McQueen (another great fashion tribute). The hard-looking shoes are then greatly contrasted by a softer, more feminine look in a following shot, featuring a wonderfully-detailed, beaded green silk dress by the late genius.

 

McQueen's nature-inspired genius

Overall, the composition of the spread works not only because of a great setting that complements the clothes well, but also because of the attention to detail. Having Werbowy don cornrows and tribal tattoos really completes the look and makes the entire theme believable and beautiful.

- by Jasmine Thomas

Fierce+Foreign: London Fashion Week

Fierce+Foreign draws on the fashion experiences of SU's students in our favorite abroad capitals.

London: Carine Umuhumuza

 

A look from Costelloe fall 2010 RTW

Begun on Friday, Feb. 19, London Fashion Week is well on it’s way. Held at the two venues this year, Somerset House (home to the British Fashion Council) and 180 Strand, it opened on a sad note as designers and fashion lovers alike paid tribute to Lee Alexander McQueen with a moment of silence.

 

Leather legwarmers at Costelloe

 

Irish designer Paul Costelloe held one of the first shows on Friday morning. Costelloe, a LFW regular, has been showing at for the past 15 years and as the season opener for the past five seasons. Costelloe presented cozy autumn/winter pieces using plaids and shiny brocade in several looks. One unique look in his collection, however, accessorized with leather legwarmers. I’m not sure how warm they will be come winter but they will definitely make a statement.

A look from sexy newcomer Haakan

LFW newcomer, Haakan presented his first show on Friday. Filled with short, curve-hugging little dresses and pants, his collection radiates sexiness. Geometric shapes and cutouts also make the pieces in the collection both one of a kind and provocative. 
 

 

Provocative cut outs

With only three days left, there's still much to see and even more to start saving for. As we all eagerly await shows from designers, such as Brit favorites Burberry Prorsum and Jonathan Saunders, we can rest assured that autumn/winter 2010 trends will surely be something to look forward to.

- by Carine Umuhumuza

Fashion Czar: Remembering Alexander McQueen

Fashion Czar is a comment from the Editor, Phillip Crook.

So, most of you've heard by now: we lost Alexander McQueen today. The British designer committed suicide in his home by reportedly hanging himself. McQueen's office confirmed the reports this morning saying, "It is a tragic loss. We are not making a comment at this time out of respect for the McQueen family."

 

Photo: modelmanagement.com

McQueen was perhaps the most inspiring talent in the fashion world. Many spoke of him, and undoubtedly will continue to, as a genius. His RTW spring 2010 show in Paris last October was a collage of all that makes fashion exciting: imagination, innovation, whimsy and glamour.

Vogue Editor Anna Wintour released a statement saying, "We are devastated to learn of the death of Alexander McQueen, one of the greatest talents of his generation. He brought a uniquely British sense of daring and aesthetic fearlessness to the global stage of fashion. In such a short career, Alexander McQueen’s influence was astonishing — from street style, to music culture and the world’s museums. His passing marks an insurmountable loss."

New York Magazine's fashion blog, The Cut, already created a retrospective gallery of McQueen's work dating from 2001. With New York Fashion Week already underway, the designer is certainly on everyone's mind. As the community moves to London, Milan and Paris in the coming month, this may likely unfold as the season to remember McQueen.

Designer Confidential: Stop, it's Timmé time

Designer Confidential highlights the work of SU's greatest fashion assest: its student designers. 

SU junior Timmé (pronounced Tim-MAY) said without his mother's support he might be a farmer in upstate NY. 

"This tooth wouldn't be there," he said, jokingly pointing to his left front tooth. But luckily for us, he's beyond mountains and possibly even beyond words.

SU student designer Timmé at work on his collection. 

This fibers major, who is minoring in fashion design, is already making a name for himself. Pieces he made for a designer as an intern have been photographed in Italian Vogue, and he showcased some of his creations on campus last month. 

As for his inspiration, he said "I'm sort of obsessed with Alexander McQueen right now."  Timmé said the headpieces McQueen uses in his runways shows is an aspect he would like incorporate with his major.

Timmé's look inspired by McQueen from last month's show. Photo: Max Jackson

The show featured a total of 19 pieces centered on reincarnating recycled materials; not bottles or beer cans, but post-consumer garments, scrap materials and even fabrics similar to sheets and curtains.

Timmé said the piece he liked most from his collection was the, "Jaromper: the jacket romper! Hands down favorite piece!"

As for what's next, his winter collection will be based on "the disposability of fashion and the rapidness of time." Timmé hopes to use watch gears instead of sequins.

The Dream Job:  Being a production designer for music videos. (Bad Romance by Lady Gaga is a favorite since it was done by Alexander McQueen.) 
Designer Confidential: While talking, Timmé and Barbie became Facebook Friends. He admits he'd love to design the 2012 Holiday dress. 
Why you should look out for him: He's doing an exhibit THIS Saturday with fellow fibers major Lauren Clarke entitled “Excuse me mister unicorn can you direct me to the vines?” To fully understand the title, make sure to check it out!

- by Rebecca Aydelotte